History of the Trench
The harsh winter winds and landscapes frosted white signify a turn of the seasons, and with it, wheels around a world of fashionable possibilities—furs, leather hides, and fleeces—but none quite as classic as the trench coat. From Kate Middleton’s sophisticated azure Holland Cooper to Alexa Chung’s savvy and endlessly iconic collection, there’s no shortage of styling inspiration for this timeless piece. It seems that the Trench never goes out of style, rather sauntering back around each fall and winter season and sending thousands scrambling to purchase an only slightly different iteration of the distinctive design—I myself almost caught a cab to the nearest department store while researching this piece.
It’s almost universally agreed that the Trench adds an instant degree of class to any outfit, tying together businesswear and elevating casual styles alike. There’s a sort of magnetism to the fashion’s durability. This durability, however, is wholly unsurprising when the past lives of the element are considered. So, to celebrate the timely approach of an unfailingly fashionable chilly season, here’s a brief dive into the history of the trench!
As winters of the mid-1800s came and went, British citizens had gradually begun to grow weary of hauling around wool greatcoats; while an unparalleled source of warmth, they were heavy and stiff and hard to come by. So, when designer Thomas Burberry and luxury house Aquascutum saw an opportunity to design something incredible, they took it. By the time a more suitable alternative was finalized and distribution began, its base audience had peddled over from the wealthy British upper class to a grittier, much more intense location—the front lines of World War One. Developed as a lightweight, sturdy alternative for the serge greatcoats worn in bad weather by soldiers, the designs became an optional item of dress for military officers. No other rank or position was permitted to wear them, and so the coats were colloquially dubbed “trench coats” by the very fighters wearing them on the lines.
The trench coats were well adapted to suit the needs of military personnel. They featured large pockets, useful for storing maps, compasses, and cases; D-rings for attaching army knives and other equipment; and shoulder straps for military insignia such as epaulettes. Constructed of sturdy, waterproof materials, over time they proved to be a drastic improvement from the unventilated weather coats of the past, which would either trap sweat and body odor or simply melt from the heat.
As the war crept to a close and veteran officers rejoined civilian life, they decided to bring their faithful trench coats with them. Unbeknownst to them, this decision would change fashion forever. As houses such as Burberry began producing this design for the general public, the style steadily made its way onto the streets of the United Kingdom and Europe and then rapidly went international when it broke into the studios.
Most film enthusiasts will be able to tell you at length (and with gusto!) about the 1942 romance classic, Casablanca. Infuse a fashion enthusiast into the conversation, and the general direction of the discussion will zero in on the iconic trench coat Humphrey Bogart wears throughout the picture. Many fashion historians cite this moment as the trench’s breakthrough into global stylistic culture, and they’re correct beyond a shadow of a doubt. Bogart’s look became widely recognizable, inspiring almost a decade of stylish winter couture: from Sophia Loren’s famous trench-and-headscarf look in The Key (1958), to Audrey Hepburn’s gentle melancholy coat in the rain in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), to Meryl Streep’s Oscar-winning Kramer vs Kramer (1979), and all the way to David Tennant’s 2009 British icon, the Tenth Doctor.
It is unsurprisingly easy to spot the stylish coat, whether that be on the big screen or on the street across from your window. What evolved from a utilitarian design has now cemented itself as a perennial staple of winterwear and will undoubtedly be seen worn in a multitude of ways for many colder seasons to come. So grab those boots or that scarf, order up that steaming coffee to go, and walk out onto the street—keeping an eye open for other chilly fashionistas with the infallible trench coat pulled tight and cozy around them this winter.